On June 20, 2007, fashion designer, Peter Som, regaled fans at the Corcoran Art Gallery in Washington, DC with a glimpse into his childhood. Mr. Som described how his architect parents encouraged him and preserved his early sketches of groups of elaborately dressed people. As a child, Som studied mannequins in store windows and drew women's fashions and some menswear. At the Corcoran, a slideshow of these early drawings revealed much detail, beauty, and delicacy in form and fit in the garments drawn.
A fifth grade trip to Paris sold Peter on becoming an art history major. While attending college, Som pored over issues of "Vogue" and other magazines for ideas. Moving to New York City, he attended Parsons School of Design. From 1999-2004, Peter Som interned for designers Michael Kors and Bill Blass, following trends to create new trends. It was hard work with little glamour. Inspiration came from from art texts, pieces of art, and gorgeous fabrics. At age 29, Som began designing clothing for his 1999 Fall collection.
In Spring 2004, he used David Bailey photographs showing clothing designs much like those worn in the swinging 60's for further inspiration. Ladies then wore tiny dresses, some made of fabric similar to that used in upholstery. "Twiggyness" was in style with babydoll tops and slim pants. Flirty dresses with graphic designs emblazoned on lace had become popular. This appealed to Som as he designed for his shows. In Fall 2004, use of vintage films provided Som with ideas for designs, colors, and fabric choices.
By Spring 2005, California beach colors; blues, reds, burnt hues and abstract designs from art gallary paintings influenced his sketches. Sheer sleeveless dresses, pleats with soft folds, easy sundresses with loose belts were the favored style. Later, clothing such as that worn by the Romanoffs in Russian paintings impressed Som. Dresses had long, silk, balloon-sleeves and velvet coats in deep hues as those in the oil pigments of the paintings. Peau de soie blouses, velvet dresses embroidered in deep reds and blues, (with full skirts and fitted waists), were complemented by fur muffs. These would dictate the coming trend.
At this time, Som also began designing for children. Old photos showed full-legged pants, sailor and flapper style dresses, kimonos. Japanese prints, dropped waists, large collars on dresses with linen and lacy bodices were all the rage. Cuffed pants and narrow belts evoked the romanticism of bygone years.
The ascot scene from the movie, "My Fair Lady," further impressed Som. His Fall 2006 collection reflected the elegance of huge hats, long gloves, and black and white contrast in dresses with high waistbands. Other dresses, in dove grey with grosgrain bows, and velvet or silk faille, featured short bubble skirts, and some had feathered hems.
A fashion revival based on paintings of Marie Antoinette, appeared in Spring 2007. Low cut dresses with watteau backs and bell shaped skirts would be the influence. Ornamentation, silk ruffles with lace, and layers of horsehair and tulle would create the desired effect. Coats with raised waists would be constructed of damask textile. Butter yellow and bright wallpaper prints, reminiscent of an 18th century botanical scene, would affect a lovely orchid sundress design.
Watch for dresses with organza over silk underlays, square necklines, and organza and velvet in bold prints as coat draping and with chiffon in skirts for Spring 2008. Peter Som believes his designs must be functional architecture for the body. Each seasons' designs are a reaction to what has been happening in the previous six months. In the future, he hopes to design shoes and menswear for himself and design interiors as well.
