Amanda Dolan “Heart Attack” Opening at Ward-Nasse Gallery

It is always great to see an artist progress, and Amanda has made leaps and bounds since her show last year at the Ward-Nasse Gallery. I got a chance to talk to Amanda about the series, and she explained her sensitivity to the negative market conditions with her usual upbeat candor. There were a variety of sizes allowing the price-points, which in turn make the more accessible for consumers. And consumers were buzzing for it. One of my favorite pieces ‘Ice Queen’ had already sold by the time I arrived, and another one was purchased as I was walking through the space and taking it all in. I think that the frenetic mélange of the previous series has been streamlined and you can see a clear influence of Basquiat and Warhol with a bit of Barbie and Cindy Lauper for fun. There was continuity to the series both between the works and referencing back to other pieces from the “Call Me Crazy” series. The pieces in “Heart Attack” carry much more gravitas, as the title of the show would suggest. It is amazing at times how Amanda can use glitter and hot pink paint to create deeply moving and reflective art. The cupcakes, a perennial favorite, were supplied by Sugar Sweet Sunshine – probably the best cupcake bakery in New York City. I will definitely be taking a trip back to the gallery to look at them again, and recommend anyone else in need of a pick-me-up look into Amanda Dolan’s work as well.

Photos by Belkis Carrasco

Champagne Brunch to benefit The Soldiers', Sailors', Marines', Coast Guard and Airmen's Club

Minnette Boesel, Ian Bone, Lauren Driscoll, Alexander Korallus-Shapiro, Anne Moody, Brooke Stoddard, Asha Talwar, and Sofia Vassilakis hosted a Champagne Brunch in the Olympic Suites of the New York Athletic Club to benefit The Soldiers', Sailors', Marines', Coast Guard and Airmen's Club. Erin and her Cello performed during a VIP reception and, DC Based, Kim Cameron and Side FX performed during the main brunch. Prince Rudolf Knaise-Melikoff met up with new friends Rachel Kirwin, Asha Talwar, and Eamon Wood whom he met at the Frick Ball days before. Axel Ditlev-Simonsen and host Sofia Vassilakis, both from European shipping families, introduced many guests to the group of Young Shipping Professionals in attendance. Washington was well represented; DC-raised co-hosts Ian Bone and Brooke Stoddard were joined by Georgetown Alums, Paul O'Neill and Michael Arseneault. Admiral Craig Bone, father of host Ian Bone, added some top brass to the military-focused charity event. Guests also enjoyed Nat Sherman cigars – some taking their gift bags early and enjoying a mid-brunch smoking break with a view from one of the NYAC balconies. The brunch ended with the attendees donning sunglasses from their gift bags to brave the all-too-bright 3:00 sunlight after several hours of Champagne and Bloody Marys.

Photos courtesy of BelkisPhoto and the SSMAC Junior Council

Ronnie Kroell Celebrates Album Launch

Ronnie Kroell hosted a gathering of friends including Tyson Beckford at West Village staple Paris Commune recently to celebrate the launch of his new album “Chemical Addictions”. Guests were treated to specialty “Taste of Her Sin”-tinis in the uber-chic, subterranean, Rouge Wine Bar. In addition DJ Drew G playing tracks from the album and his own remixes of Ronnie's debut singles, "Miserable Attraction" and "Taste of Her Sin," guests got a live performance by Ronnie and fellow Make Me A Supermodel contestants Perry Ullmann and Casey Skinner. The guys had formed a mock boy band in Times Square during the filming of the show; putting out an alleged record 50 hits in under 4 minutes. The performance of one such hit was followed by a reenactment of Ronnie deciding to go solo. The lighthearted atmosphere was a great compliment to the fun dance tracks on the album.

Douglas Hannant FW09 Collection

Leaving early from other shows just so we can literally sprint to The
Plaza to view Douglas Hannant's FW09 collection, the WSR staff had
high hopes for a chic, utterly New York collection were pretty high.

The color pallette was naturally heavy on black, in all it's
textures...from Swiss dot netting to sequins to the ubiquitous black
beads accessorizing most outfits. Pop colors ranged from muted blues
and red, to bold chartreuse and a warm purple. As beautiful as the
eveningwear was, the casuals and suiting was that much of a
disappointment, added apparently as an after-thought.

Overall, a collection we are looking forward to watch evolve and
develop into a coherent, sophisticated statement.


(images courtesy of Bob Bland)

Max Azria Explores the Seduction of the Dark Side

The Max Azria Fall 2009 Show was run in a darkened tent with only two rows of tract lighting from the ceiling. Though shades of deep mustard, plum, and teal were included with black, charcoal, and antique white and cream, the audience would have had to be owls or bats to know the difference.

A charcoal wool felt waist coat was shown over a black lace bodysuit with black leather suede leggings, black leather belt, and black ankle boots. Regardless of the intricity of design, the wearer could scarcely be seen crossing a street in New York City or anywhere else on a winter night.

Fall and winter do cause us to cover ourselves with mohair, jersey, velvet, and other knit fabrics produced for warmth. Thank goodness forest green and grey jersey, black crepe, and georgette were embroidered and embellished with metallic lace and shown as dresses and evening wear, as well.

Hopefully the dark side in clothing won't set the tone for many fashion seasons to come. Consumers will need to see bright colors and variations in design to interest them in replacing apparel and expanding their wardrobes come spring.

Nanette Lepore F/W09 Collection

"Amber glow, Paris at twilight. Violet and rose dance with ebony. Scarf prints slide under velvet. Paillettes shimmer. Romantic knits. Sensuous warmth. Opulence of the modern heroine." ~Artist Statement, Nanette Lepore F/W09

I'm an enormous supporter of Lepore's Save The Garment District initiative, but as much as I want to love her collection, these color combos were my least favorite of the season. Heavily steeped in 70's bohemian chic with a touch of early 90's, the styling included plenty of scarf prints (as promised), metallic embroidery, mélange boucle and hand-knit caps. And leopard print, naturally...heaven help any fashionistsa who doesn't love animal prints this fall.


The pairing of primary violet with spun sugar red and amber was a tad garish for my palette, and the browns were clashing, but that's a matter of taste, I suppose. And I'd buy Lepore's locally made styles any day of the week over her Asian import competitors.

BACKSTAGE

WSR Editor-in-Chief Diana Bland with Nanette Lepore


(images courtesy of Bob Bland)

ADAM by Adam Lippes AW 09

Finally some color. ADAM is currently the best show I have seen this season, and with the Blondes not showing all bets are that this will be my top pick for AW09. Amazing range from sequins, to bright colors, to amazing cherry tree embroidery, to fanstastic coats – this show had everything you will need to keep you happy and warm next fall. The detailing on one of the coats almost looked like oysters laid out on the collar – not that you would need any help from aphrodisiacs if you were wearing anything from this collection. All of the color choices were very warm, including one amazing orange fur coat, a welcome break from the somber collections walking all over Bryant Park this week. It seems it is Adam Lippes’ time to shine. This grouping of great wearable pieces will warm your heart and your body.

(Photos courtesy of WWD.com)

Jennifer Love Hewitt enjoying the show

(Photo by Bob Bland)

Poleci AW 09

Guests were greeted by several of the best pieces at this in-store presentation. Two long Grecian column dresses with asymmetrical seaming were interesting but unfinished. The mannequin in the window had on the most stunning piece - a blue metallic fringe skirt with a black Grace Jones inspired jersey hoodie. The burnt gold overdress of tulle rosettes was intriguing but bulky. From there in the pieces became more un-wearable and unfinished. Some of the metal accents embroidered into the dresses weighed down the lightweight ground fabrics. This was most evident when the models would change pedestals. I found myself wondering if the presentation format was beneficial in not showing the hindrance of movement or if it was a mistake to allow guests to see the unfinished hems, buckling seams, and general sloppy finishing up close. Three standout pieces included a textured metallic silk skirt in silver, the same fabric top in gold, and a fur smock that was precariously held in the back by a large safety pin. As for accessories, a gorgeous indigo necklace looked almost like coral forming, or some moss from a magical forest. However, the other accessory pieces looked like last a bad grab bag from last season. The shoes were interesting although clearly uncomfortable. In all the show was almost as unbalanced as the hastily made asymmetrical garments.

(images courtesy of wwd.com)

Luca Luca AW 09

Simple classic and well tailored, these clothes are traditional Luca Luca. Hosting the show in the Plaza Hotel’s Palm Court, with an audience who looked like regulars, only seemed too fitting. The models looked as though they could have sat down at any of the tables and taken tea. A beautiful and restrained use of fur throughout the collection, I particularly loved the fox vest-dress. Colors were generally dark and deeply saturated – two of my favorite color choices were the deep teal and eggplant. Additionally, there was a nice subtle use of print with the iridescent multicolor fabric. Accessories were distractingly large and off-putting. Elegant, well made, and wearable without being breathtaking; these clothes will definitely sell - which is what you need in a recession... I guess.

(photos courtesy of WWD.com)

Luca Luca FW09 Collection @ The Plaza

Washington Style Reporter style editor Ian Bone and I attended

separate showings of Luca Luca's Presentation at The Palm Court of The

Plaza Hotel, but we were in definite agreement that the collection,
however sumptuously shown, was merely appropriate for these
economically unsure times, and took few of the risks in color and
styling that have delighted us.

(images courtesy of Bob Bland)

Jill Stuart FW09 Collection @ Astor Hall

Considerably better than their previous few collections, Jill Stuart's
Fall offerings were varied and fun party pieces in black and white
Chantily lace, (way too much) plush velvet, silk satin and organza
with splashes of deep purple and lavender.

I was feeling a ninties vibe in the velvet fedoras with huge, langui silk flowers and in the somewhat juvenile prints and textures. Wannabe rock princesses and the character of Jenny Humphrey on Gossip Girl came to mind as possible customers for this look.

Astor Hall is a beautiful space for any event, but it is one of my
least favorite runway venues because of the awkward layout and view-
blocking columns. It would be nice if next season the team at Jill
Stuart considers a different space.

Carlos Miele FW09 Collection

Sitting across from Hamish Bowles was fun enough, but when Carlos
Miele made good on his promise of a live performance by Brazilian
musician Max de Castro, everyone from the photo pit to the front row
was captivated.

Castro strutted up and down the runway amidst luxuriously dressed
models wearing impeccable eveningwear, suiting and furs in
refreshingly vibrant colors with details to spare. From accordian
pleating to military-inspired contrast braiding, Miele put out the
most consistently desirable collection I've seen this week.

I loved the lipstick reds, cadet blues and maroons, as well as the
tight mix of subdued suiting separates over sassy cocktail styles. The
standout piece for me was a pleated shrug in silver that would be the
perfect accent to any evening style.

Great show, great presentation and wonderful music concept!

(images courtesy of Bob Bland)